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Mindelo, where ocean crossings start: a sailor’s guide to the town

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Mindelo, where ocean crossings start: a sailor’s guide to the town

Mindelo is where a lot of Atlantic crossings start, and the town is worth an extra day. This is not a guide to the islands. It is the part we walk with Bronk, from the yellow house, ten minutes up from the quay.

Since 1 November 2026, Over de Oceaan has been on Play every Sunday at 20:00. Six Flemish celebrities who had not sailed are crossing from Cabo Verde to Rio, about five thousand kilometres. If that is why you looked Mindelo up, the quay is Porto Grande, and we live just above it.

The marina is on the east side of the bay, in front of the town, which is why crews actually come ashore. Call it on VHF 72. Coming in, after Ilhéu dos Pássaros, stay to the north side of the bay and give the commercial pier room. Do not anchor in the channel the fuel tanker uses. If this page and your chart disagree, believe the chart.

Walk it once before you shop. Down to the quay, then the market if it is still morning. Mercado Municipal is a few minutes from the pontoons: fruit and vegetables. The fish market is for tonight, not for a fridge that has to last until Brazil. Then the grid, before the heat. People still say Praça Nova. The square is Amílcar Cabral. Bronk waits outside the shops. He does not go into churches. Late in the day, the waterfront and Laginha. He knows the beach and he does not swim. Home is uphill: Rua Franz Fanon 14.

There is no supermarket here like the ones in the Canaries. Buy what is fresh. Fragata is the close shop. Super Mais is a short taxi towards Monte Sossego when you are feeding more than two. The water on the pontoon is not for drinking. Cooking gas is a walk into town, not a hose at the berth. Take escudos for the market. The escudo follows the euro.

If you have one more day, Santo Antão is the island you can see from the quay. About nine miles, about an hour on the ferry, when the board says it is running. The channel can be rough on a calm morning in town. Leave your bags with us and take the morning boat. We do not send you round the other islands. For São Vicente on foot, the other guides are Monte Verde, Salamansa and Viana.

You do not need a boat. Cesária Évora airport is about fifteen minutes by taxi. Three nights is enough if you are not crossing an ocean. One to arrive, one to walk, one to look at the boats and stay.

Practical

Marina
East side of Porto Grande, in front of the town. VHF 72.
Water
Not for drinking, on the pontoon. Buy bottles.
Market
Morning. Mercado Municipal, a few minutes from the marina.
Shops
Fragata nearby. Super Mais by taxi for a bigger load.
The house
Rua Franz Fanon 14, about ten minutes from the harbour.
Santo Antão
About an hour by ferry, if the board says it is running.
Bronk’s tip

Turn back from Laginha before you are tired. The way home is uphill, and that is the part people forget.

Questions about the town? Ask Christophe on WhatsApp

Crossing to Santo Antão? This week’s ferry times.

Stay with us in Mindelo

Three colourful rooms with private bathrooms, a rooftop terrace and breakfast at your time, right in the centre of Mindelo.

Bronk’s guides